Are your seams different lengths? You know that the front and the back are supposed to be the same length at the side seam. And you know that the back shoulder seam is supposed to match the front shoulder seam but…. it doesn’t. Or does it?
There are two common reasons why your seams may not match.
One, the pattern was drafted or printed or traced off poorly.
Two, you’re checking the wrong part of the seam.
In this video, I show you how simple it is to true a pattern. Where to measure, how to account for a dart or pleat, and why some seams aren’t supposed to be perfectly matched.
Trueing a pattern is when you double check that the seams which will be sewn together are true to each other. This step is really important to do after you’ve drafted or altered a pattern or if the pattern came from a book with multiple patterns* or from a source of unproven quality.
*Why when it comes from a book? In my experience patterns that come with books usually, have mistakes. Is this because they are drafted under deadline and crammed onto one sheet with ten other patterns? Or is because they are not as thoroughly checked (proof-read) as patterns published by a pattern company? Not sure but I always true a pattern if it came from a book.
When Trueing a Pattern Remember:
- Measure the seam lines which is not always the same as the perimeter of a pattern.
- Line up notches and start walking the pattern from the notch
- Walk your pattern along the seam line
- Account for ease
- Fold out darts, tucks, and pleats from any seam line that you are trueing.