Shortening a skirt is pretty straight forward. Fold up the appropriate amount of excess skirt at the hem. Trim off any fabric that is more than you need for turning under a new hem and hem it. My skirt, too long as it was, could not be taking up at the bottom for it had […] Read more…
Making a Pattern From a Favorite Skirt
I made the orange skirt without a commercial pattern. I based it off the brown skirt which I had bought years ago. I like the way the brown skirt fits and thought how hard would it be to copy it? It’s simply constructed with ten identical panels, a side zipper and a 2″ facing at […] Read more…
Hand Stitching Tip #11
Did you know that when you hand baste anything, any stitch (tailor baste stitch shown in picture) that you do not need to tie a knot in your thread? Just leave a long enough tail (3″) so you don’t accidentally pull out the first stitch when making subsequent stitches. By leaving off the knot you […] Read more…
Sewing Darts
Darts are magical. They make a flat piece of fabric take shape. They can blend in to the garment or stand out as a design feature. I admire a well placed dart. I do not like a pointy dart, or one with a pucker and those boo – boos can easily happen to your darts […] Read more…
How to Transfer Darts From Pattern to Fabric
I’ve started a new project; a summer top. It has four darts in the front and two in the back. Tailor tacks are what you’re supposed to use to transfer dart markings from the pattern to the fabric. However, I think Tailor Tack Lite* (TM 😉 work just as great Tailor tacks are more secure […] Read more…
How to Check a Pattern for Mistakes & Correct Them
If you’ve sewn more than a dozen patterns I bet this has happened to you. It’s completely frustrating and this time it’s not your sewing skills or lack of attention that caused it. It’s your commercial pattern. It wasn’t trued. A true pattern is a pattern that all seams fit perfectly together as you would […] Read more…
10 Essential Tips for Stress Free Hand Sewing
1. It’s a Needle, Not a Harpoon Use the smallest needle for the weight of your fabric. Smaller needles give you better control over your stitches. Heavier weight and tighter weave fabrics need a strong needle but still choose the smallest strong needle you have. 2. Darker Thread Blends in Better When choosing which color […] Read more…
Basic Sewing Tips: A Better Way To Clip A Corner
You know how pattern directions always tell you to clip the seam allowance of a corner off? Well their method of one snip across the corner works okay but this is what I learned in my first semester in Fashion Design classes. It’s that basic. You need to know this and it’s so simple you […] Read more…
Preparing and Cutting Wool Coating
Wool is one of my favorite fabrics to sew. It’s so easy and pliable, and as a finished garment, holds up well. Wool comes in all different weights and weaves and blends. My coat fabric is wool and alpaca. It has a pile and is heavy and thick enough for a coat. (This is why […] Read more…
A Lesson to Learn Before Cutting Into Your Fabric
I was reminded of an important step when cutting out your garment pieces and the more expensive your fabric is the more important the step. Before you cut any piece out of your fabric, lay out the pattern pieces on your fabric according to the pattern’s plan to be sure they fit. You don’t have […] Read more…