Sewing Book and Pattern Review : Lotta Jansdotter Everyday Style & it’s Kiomi Top Pattern

Since I first saw an article about her in Sunset Magazine (in the mid 1990s) I have admired Lotta Jansdotter’s work. So no surprise that I really like her new book, Lotta Jansdotter Everyday Style; Key Pieces to Sew. Yes, it has patterns, and yes that’s the first thing I noticed and yes, those nine patterns, for basic tops, dresses, a skirt, a pair of pants, and bags, were what I based buying the book on – at first anyway.

So simple and basic were the garments in Everyday Style that I decided not to order it. I liked the style of all the clothing and the different variations but surely I already owned similar patterns. So, I’ll pass. Besides, my shelf already stores a few books with patterns that I haven’t sewn from yet.

When I saw the book, in person, though, I saw it was more than a collection of clothing patterns. It’s journal pages, photography, travelogue, colors, designs, ideas. For me it was inspiration; excitement even. I pulled out my wallet. Decision made.

The garments in Lotta Jansdotter Everyday Style appeal to me. They really are everyday type clothing; effortless, casual, but not sloppy. The patterns are for woven fabrics which I prefer and are so basic, like blue jeans, you can imagine having a few of each style in regular rotation. Being so basic they also hold many possibilities and interpretations; a neckline could be changed, pockets added, color blocking done or sewn in a dressier fabric for special days as well as everyday.

I put the book on my work table to browse through but found myself reading it instead. Soon Lotta’s book cut to the front of the line (or rather, pile) of my started projects and projects I wanted to start. What can I say, impulse sometimes takes over my day.

I thought I would make a scarf (there are a few easy projects through out the book as well as the patterns) but I didn’t have the right fabric for a scarf and I can’t buy any fabric until November. The tunic in the book, (it’s also made into a dress and a top) was calling my name but summer just started and I live in the south which means it’s just going to get hotter. I traced off the sleeveless Kiomi top pattern instead. Simpler anyway; let’s start there.

All the pattern pieces are on two sheets of heavy paper, printed front and back. There are easy to read diagrams to show you where you will find the pattern you want on the sheets. I liked that extra feature. It’s been helpful. The garments come in four sizes S, M, L, and XL. I traced off a large based on the size chart. That’s my usual size anyway.

The pattern had to be altered to fit me – as patterns always do. But being a loose fitting garment it wasn’t anything too complicated. I started by adding length above the bust point or the neckline would have choked me. My torso is a little on the long side but the pattern only has 8″ from shoulder to bust point on the size large – that’s a high bust, or a very uplifting bra, don’t you think?

Past sewing has taught me to just go ahead and do a full bust adjustment as I’m a C cup and most patterns aren’t. I like a little swing in a swing top, not tight across the chest so I did the FBA (full bust adjustment) before making the muslin. (However, Colette Patterns does draft for a C cup and that’s nice.)

After the muslin try on I had to widen the shoulders, take in the sides a little at the bottom (too swingy there for my apple shape), add some more length below the waist, and move the shoulder seam forward by 3/8″. And thanks to a Craftsy class still fresh in my head I knew all that, and it was easy.

The top sewed up in just over an hour once the fabric was cut and the bias binding was made (that’s how the neck and armholes are finished). I would say you need to have a little sewing experience or some extra patience since the instructions have very few illustrations. I chose a quilting cotton for this top (using up my stash) which is a little heavy, however, I’m pleased with the outcome and will make another Kiomi top or two (I will bring it in a little more on the sides).

It really was a lot of alterations for a simple top – BUT, my friends, we are not one size fits all and now I have a pattern that fits me well and is simple enough that I could make it many times more – as tops, as dresses, with more gathers, with less, maybe a tunic length with a split hem at the side seam. The variations could go on and on because a simple, basic pattern, which all of the Everyday Style patterns are, is always that, simple and basic, or they can be a starting point for something else. And remember not everyone is going to need to make as many adjustments to these patterns as I did.

Lotta Jansdotter Everyday Style is the first sewing book that didn’t sit on my shelf for months before I made something from it. It not only gave me patterns to use, it gave me inspiration to use the patterns. If you like Lotta Jansdotter’s style then this book may have the same effect on you too. I’m going to make the pants from the book this week. We’ll see how I do.

Side Note: what makes one garment simple and another boring? Does a garment have to be so pure, brought down to it’s essentials, before it becomes aesthetically pleasing? Like a good vanilla ice cream can taste so good? When a garment doesn’t fully commit to being simple – it sort of gets there but then adds a little something or it can’t let go of some detail – is that when it becomes neither interesting nor simple, just boring? I’m not sure what makes the difference, but it’s probably in the eye of the beholder anyway.