Rachel Comey Top; Vogue 1247 Pattern Review

My sewing brain is on summer vacation. It doesn’t want to think hard it just wants to sew. So I’m sewing “easy” patterns which I’m enjoying tremendously. There’s more actual sewing and less puzzle solving. I’m getting garments done and, bonus, they’re wearable.

Rachel Comey’s design for Vogue Patterns, V1247, is my latest success. The pattern includes a top and skirt. I only made the top.

Rachel Comey started out as a menswear designer in 2001. The line now focuses on women’s wear. Her designs are simple, creative and have a little edge to them.

Style details: The Rachel Comey Vogue top is boxy and over sized but still feminine with its center bust dart (a new favorite of mine since sewing Butterick’s Lisette Pattern 6182) and fluid drape. It’s made to pull on over the head so no fasteners are needed. Both the front and the back have two pleats at the shoulder seams and sleeve bands attach to dolman sleeves.

The front of the top is unusual in that it is made out of six pieces. It was that detail that sold the pattern to me so I played it up by using a striped fabric.

Vogue 1247 is not rated easy but it is. It’s labeled average but I think that is only because it is sewn together with french seams. It’s a nice detail and adds some construction time but it isn’t difficult.

The process: I measured the pattern against my measurements and knew a size 14 would fit and still be loose but I followed the pattern sizing chart and made a 16 thinking, perhaps, a 14 wouldn’t be as over sized on me as the designer intended. Turned out that the size 16 is too over sized for my taste but not so much that it’s unwearable.

Cutting out the fabric was a bit tricky due to every piece being cut individually. The pattern called for two yards of fabric, I had two yards (cut generously) and it really took the entire two yards. I had to plan carefully before cutting.

The instructions were clear and the way the garment came together worked well, especially with all the piecing going on in the front. Although it took some effort and a lot of pins I didn’t have to struggle to make the front seams come together to form a neat point. I’m super proud of that seaming and I know it’s a detail no non-sewer will appreciate.

Sewing a garment with french seams was a little different for me. I had to stop and think  which side of the garment I was about to sew. Using a fabric with no visible difference between back and front made for a little added confusion. Having the finished seams inside makes the inside look almost as good as the outside. I really like how tidy it is where the six pieces meet.

What I did differently: Apparently I cut out my pieces differently because on a few seams my notches did not line up as they should have. I just ignored my notches on those seams after double checking it would be okay to do so. I have not checked the pattern pieces to see if the notches were marked incorrectly to begin with.

In order for the two center bust darts to line up when I sewed the right top bodice to the left top bodice I had to undo and trim down the neckline a tad on left side. I do not know why I had this problem lining up the top front pieces but I fixed it in my own way.

What I will do differently: I will use a fabric that drapes more. Perhaps a georgette (with french seams that would work well). Vogue recommends Crepe de Chine, Charmeuse and lightweight linen. I used lightweight cotton (from Kaffe Fassett). A more fluid fabric would make the back not so puffy. I hope with more washings my cotton version will soften and relax.

I did sew french seams on every seam instructed to (all but the sleeve bands and the bias neck facing strip) but you could sew this top with not one french seam, especially if you used a woven fabric like I did, or have a serger to overcast your seams.

Next time I will also shorten the distance between the front shoulder seam and the bust (notice the bust dart is too low) or I will make it one size smaller.

Will I make this pattern again: Yes. I’ve worn this top a couple of times now and find it very comfortable and it feels a bit more stylish than my usual t-shirt. Plus it was easy to make. I realize though that if this top was sewn in charmeuse as recommended it would take a lot more patience, but in a lightweight linen, I’d do it again.