Guide to Hand Stitches: Five Basic Stitches for Garment Construction

We don’t have to sew our clothes by hand anymore but there are are times and construction details that call for hand stitching. Here are five hand stitches that will prove useful to know.

Watch the video for detailed instructions and a couple hand sewing tips. I have posted pictures below for those just needing a reminder of the stitch.

The Running Stitch is probably the most basic hand stitch and can be used for just about any seam however you don’t want to use it on a seam that is under a lot of strain. For a permanent stitch make your stitches 1/16 to 1/8 inch long (2 to 3 mm). A running stitch can also be used for gathering and easing and because the stitches will be removed your stitch length can be longer but not more than 1/4 inch (6 mm). (Please watch the video for detailed instructions)

The Back Stitch is one of the strongest hand stitches. It’s great for mending seams that are hard to reach and receive a lot of strain. Again stitch length is 1/16 to 1/8 inch long (2 to 3 mm). (Please watch the video for detailed instructions)

The Half Back Stitch is a strong all purpose stitch. It can be used to under stitch your facings to prevent them from rolling out from the garment. Like the back stitch above but going back only half of the length. (Please watch the video for detailed instructions)

The Prick Stitch is my favorite stitch for setting in centered zippers. I will choose this method over machine setting a centered zipper every time. It’s quick and it looks great. Executed like the back stitch and the half back stitch but only go back one or two threads. Use this with matching thread and the stitch disappears into the fabric. (Please watch the video for detailed instructions)

The Hand Pick Stitch is a decorative stitch and used on a single layer of fabric. A thicker, even contrasting thread could be used since the stitch is decorative and therefore meant to be noticed. Sewn like the prick stitch but the thread should be slightly looser (and could be slightly longer) in order to lay on top of the fabric like beads. This is not a running stitch. The stitch is made by putting the needle down, to the right of where the needle comes up from the back. (Please watch the video for detailed instructions)