It is the middle of Me-Made-May and I seem to be achieving the exact opposite of it’s desired effect. Instead of appreciating the clothing I’ve made by wearing them more often, I’m getting tired of my self made garments because I wear the same few pieces all the time. Someone give me a box store t-shirt please. Or, wait, maybe I could make something new to wear.
I hadn’t planned on making the new top from Lisette by Butterick but the pattern envelope, still on my table from making the skirt a few weeks ago, caught my eye. The dart detail on the top bothered me but other than that it looked cute and super easy to make. I was willing to try it out. I was feeling a little desperate, my Me-Made-May challenge was more of a challenge than I planned on.
Style Details: a woven, boxy top with slight shaping at the hem and waist. The shirt has a center front and center back seam, no fasteners and a crew neck line finished with a bias band. The sleeves are bands and set in a kimono style shoulder. Two bust darts are placed off the center front seam and form a horizontal line between the bust apexes.
What I did differently: I followed the directions pretty carefully so I could review it as it was intended. However I did not have quite enough fabric to cut out the bias strip for the neck so I used bias binding I had left from an earlier project (I’m using my stash, so it’s what I had). Also, due to my lack of fabric I cut the sleeve bands up the length grain instead of across it. The printed pattern on my fabric is abstract but has a horizontal line to it. Running the sleeve bands as the pattern directed would have resulted in the lines in the fabric to be perpendicular to each other at the sleeve/bodice seam. That would have looked nice and added interest to the garment, but alas, it wasn’t to be this time.
I did add length to my pattern. Is it that the top is suppose to be slightly cropped or am I just long in the torso? I am a bit long in the torso but I think the shirt could use some added length as well.
What I will do differently: I would like to make this without the sleeve bands. Just fold over and sew down the seam allowance on the bodice where the sleeve bands would go. I don’t mind the sleeve bands but I think this top would also be cute with out them.
I think I will widen the neck to be more of a boat neck and less of a crew neck. On the model it seems wider.
Another idea is to add a keyhole opening at center front and eliminate the darts.
Would I make this again? Yes, definitely. Not only do I find it comfortable, versatile and some what fashionable it was quick to sew. (It took me 3.5 hours after cutting it out and I’m not a fast sewer). The funny thing about it was the dart detail. On the pattern envelope that dart placement really looked odd to me and I thought I would never make this top because of the darts. Then after making and wearing the top I find that I really like that dart placement. It’s a little detail that adds a lot of interest.
Tips I want to pass on: Get the dart placement right on. It should line up with your bust apex. Lengthen or shorten the pattern above the apex so the dart is correctly lined up. Also because the darts are front and center be sure they line up exactly when sewing the center front seam.
When sewing the sleeve bands in,place the bodice on top, facing you. The bodice will be against the machine’s pressure foot. Have the sleeve band on the under side (see photo to the right). If you have a removable front to your machine remove it to make the machine arm narrow and fit it into the armhole when sewing.