{"id":5963,"date":"2025-03-24T12:35:11","date_gmt":"2025-03-24T16:35:11","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/?p=5963"},"modified":"2025-03-26T13:24:59","modified_gmt":"2025-03-26T17:24:59","slug":"when-and-how-to-do-a-full-bust-adjustment","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/2025\/03\/when-and-how-to-do-a-full-bust-adjustment\/","title":{"rendered":"When and How to do a Full Bust Adjustment"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1000\" height=\"672\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-mn.jpg\" alt=\"title image\" class=\"wp-image-5989\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-mn.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-mn-300x202.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-mn-150x101.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-mn-768x516.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>This post is one in a series about getting a better fit from your patterns through simple pattern adjustments.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The Full Bust Adjustment, aka FBA, is one of the most common adjustments women need to make to their sewing pattern. (Did you know the average bra size in America is a 34DD?)<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Luckily, it\u2019s also one of those adjustments, like height, that you can find out if you need to make it by knowing two simple things; your pattern cup size and your pattern&#8217;s cup size. (Pattern cup sizes are NOT the same as bra cup sizes but they use the same letters to confuse all of us)<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-16-9 wp-has-aspect-ratio\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"Sewing FBAs: Full Bust Adjustment Tutorial | Bust Adjustments | The Daily Sew\" width=\"1140\" height=\"641\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/7WfGpuBnZBU?feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>This video and post show how to do a FBA on a bodice with a dart and a bodice without a dart. It also explains how to know when you need a bust adjustment by looking at the muslin and\/or knowing about pattern cup sizes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Let\u2019s go!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"638\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-28-1024x638.jpg\" alt=\"what to look for on the garment\" class=\"wp-image-5987\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-28-1024x638.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-28-300x187.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-28-150x93.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-28-768x478.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-28-1536x957.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-28.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">When Do You Need a Full Bust Adjustment?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>You try on your test garment or finished garment and you notice one or more of the following:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>The front of the garment is straining across the bust.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Diagonal lines in the fabric go from the shoulders to the bust or from under the bust to the side seam.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>The front hem or waist seam is rising up\/shorter under the bust.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>The side seams are pulling forward.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>The garment fits the waist, shoulders, and neck well, just the area across the bust is tight.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>All of these signs mean you need more fabric in the bust area of the garment. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If the garment fit is off somehow, but you&#8217;re having none of the above-listed signs, a simple repositioning of the bust dart, or an empire seam line, may be all that\u2019s needed for a better fit. You have room for the bust, it\u2019s just that the extra room is not aligned with where you need it. It may be too high or too low for your bust.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If you haven\u2019t sewn the garment yet, but you know that tightness across the bust is a common problem you have with sewing patterns or you know the difference between your high bust and full bust is more than the pattern was drafted for you will benefit from doing a Full Bust Adjustment or at least look into it before cutting your fabric.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If you\u2019ve seen my video or <a href=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/2025\/02\/get-the-right-fit\/\" data-type=\"post\" data-id=\"5938\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">read the post <\/a>about choosing the best size pattern, you\u2019ve chosen your pattern size based on your high bust measurement, not your full bust. We do this to get the best fit in the upper chest and shoulders, which are harder to adjust, but it might leave you with a pattern that is too small across the full bust.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"647\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-5-1024x647.jpg\" alt=\"measure your high bust and your full bust\" class=\"wp-image-5968\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-5-1024x647.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-5-300x190.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-5-150x95.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-5-768x485.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-5-1536x970.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-5.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Determine the Amount You Need to Add<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Start with taking your high bust measurement and your full bust measurement.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Read my post <a href=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/2025\/02\/get-the-right-fit\/\" data-type=\"post\" data-id=\"5938\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">\u201cGet the Right Fit\u201d<\/a> for how to take these measurements accurately.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The difference between your high bust and full bust tells you what pattern cup size you are. Forget about bra cup size. This is not the same. In pattern drafting, the cup size refers to the difference, in inches, between the high bust measurement and the full bust measurement.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If you have a 1\u201d difference you are pattern A-cup, 2\u201d difference = a pattern B-cup, 3\u201d difference = a pattern C-cup, and so on.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"580\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-1-1024x580.jpg\" alt=\"what size does a pattern company draft for?\" class=\"wp-image-5965\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-1-1024x580.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-1-300x170.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-1-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-1-768x435.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-1-1536x869.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-1.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>What cup size is the pattern is drafted for? Most companies will tell you on their website if not on the pattern. Vogue, Butterick, McCalls and Simplicity all draft for a 2\u201d difference (or B-cup) between the high bust and full bust.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If you have a 3\u201d difference and your pattern was drafted for a 2\u201d difference, you already know, especially if the style is fitted, that you need 1\u201d more in the bust.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Measure the Flat Pattern<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Another way to find out how much to adjust the pattern is to compare your measurement<em> <strong>plus your<\/strong> <strong>desired ease<\/strong><\/em>* to the flat pattern measurement or the finished garment measurements if the pattern provides them.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">*A Note About Ease<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>The minimum ease, aka wearing ease, is the amount of fabric beyond the body measurements. Wearing ease is added to garments for movement. If the garment was made the exact same measurements as the body, it would need to be made from stretch fabric so one could sit down or raise their arms. Therefore, wearing ease is added, more so to woven garments than stretch garments.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The amount of wearing ease will also vary depending on the thickness and stiffness of the fabric and if the garment is meant to be cut on the bias.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Additional ease beyond wearing ease, is called design ease. It is added for style, like a swing top, an oversized T-shirt, or a full skirt.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Many people have a preference for how loose or fitted they like their clothes, no matter what the current style may be.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/guide-to-minimum-bust-ease-the-daily-sew-1024x576.jpeg\" alt=\"minimum bust ease\nBlouse, dress, jumpsuit\u00a0 2.5 to 3\u201d or 6.5 -7.5 cm\n\nUnlined jacket 3-4\u201d or 7.5 to 10 cm\n\nLined jacket 3.5-4.5\u201d or 9-11.5cm\n\nCoats 4-5\u201d or 10-12.5 cm\" class=\"wp-image-5990\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/guide-to-minimum-bust-ease-the-daily-sew-1024x576.jpeg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/guide-to-minimum-bust-ease-the-daily-sew-300x169.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/guide-to-minimum-bust-ease-the-daily-sew-150x84.jpeg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/guide-to-minimum-bust-ease-the-daily-sew-768x432.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/guide-to-minimum-bust-ease-the-daily-sew-1536x864.jpeg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/guide-to-minimum-bust-ease-the-daily-sew.jpeg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>It\u2019s important to measure the pattern where you need the fullness<\/strong>. The bust is not located at the same level on everybody or on every pattern. You need to determine where your apex is compared to where it is on the pattern<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">How to Determine the Location of Your Bust Apex on the Pattern<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>The bust apex is where the bust is the fullest. The pattern has a bust apex just like the body. On a well-made pattern, the apex is marked with a cross inside a circle. You want the pattern\u2019s apex and your apex to be in the same location for the best fit. And you need to move mark your apex on the pattern before doing a Full Bust Adjustment<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"761\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-3-1024x761.jpg\" alt=\"compare the pattern's apex to your own\" class=\"wp-image-5966\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-3-1024x761.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-3-300x223.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-3-150x111.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-3-768x571.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-3-1536x1141.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-3.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>To find where your apex is on a tissue pattern, simply hold it up against your body, mind that the seam lines and center front are in the correct position, and mark on the pattern where the fullest part of your breast is. This is your bust apex.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"647\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-4-1024x647.jpg\" alt=\"measure down from the shoulder and from apex to apea\" class=\"wp-image-5967\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-4-1024x647.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-4-300x190.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-4-150x95.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-4-768x485.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-4-1536x970.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-4.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Or measure yourself down from the middle of your shoulder to your apex. Then across your breast from apex to apex.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"697\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-6-1024x697.jpg\" alt=\"Determine where the apex is on you and on the pattern.\" class=\"wp-image-5969\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-6-1024x697.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-6-300x204.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-6-150x102.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-6-768x523.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-6-1536x1045.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-6.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Then transfer these measurements to the flat pattern.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Start by measuring down from mid-shoulder to the bust apex on the pattern. If the apex is not marked on the pattern, the bust dart will be pointing to it but be at least 1\u201d away from the apex. Remember to measure from the shoulder seamline, not the edge of the pattern piece. Mark how far down your apex is.&nbsp;<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Measure over horizontally from the center front, half of your apex to apex distance. Remember to measure from center front, which is not always the edge of the pattern piece. Make a mark.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Where the two marks meet is the location of your apex.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>If your pattern didn&#8217;t have the apex marked, now it does \ud83d\ude09<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>If your apex is within 1\/2&#8243; of the pattern&#8217;s apex you do not have to move the pattern&#8217;s apex.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>If your apex was more than 1\/2&#8243; away form the pattern&#8217;s apex the bust dart will no longer be pointing toward the apex (yours). Move the dart now higher or lower so it points toward the new apex position. Or you can redraw the dart. (To redraw the dart: start at the base of the dart and keeping the dart legs the same length as they are now, draw in new legs so the tip points to your apex. The legs stay where they started but the tip moves higher or lower on the bodice)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>Now you can measure across the pattern at the bust apex that is level to your bust apex. Exclude the seam allowance and anything extending beyond the center front. Double this to get the total front width. Add the width of the back pattern pieces to this.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Compare the pattern measurements to your body measurements <strong>+ desired ease<\/strong>. How much do you need to add?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>FYI: <\/strong>You can not add an infinite amount to the pattern with a FBA alone. It will distort the pattern. So if you need more than 4\u201d total added to the pattern you will need a FBA and another type of alteration.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"701\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-11-1024x701.jpg\" alt=\"the pattern before\" class=\"wp-image-5970\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-11-1024x701.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-11-300x205.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-11-150x103.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-11-768x526.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-11-1536x1051.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-11.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">How to Do the Full Bust Adjustment on a Bodice With a Bust Dart<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Have your apex marked on your pattern.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Take a ruler and draw a line parallel to the grainline from the apex to the waist seam or hem.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"692\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-12-1024x692.jpg\" alt=\"draw the three lines\" class=\"wp-image-5971\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-12-1024x692.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-12-300x203.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-12-150x101.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-12-768x519.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-12-1536x1038.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-12.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Draw a line from the apex to approximately the middle of the lower third of the armhole. It doesn\u2019t need to be precise, just eyeball it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Draw a line through the middle of the dart, starting at the dart\u2019s base, to the apex. Because you marked your apex this line may or may not go through the tip of the dart. That\u2019s ok because we\u2019ll redraw the dart when we\u2019re done.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"677\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-13-1024x677.jpg\" alt=\"cut on the lines\" class=\"wp-image-5972\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-13-1024x677.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-13-300x198.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-13-150x99.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-13-768x508.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-13-1536x1016.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-13.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Cut on your first line from the waist\/hem to the apex.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Turn toward the armhole and cut. Stop just shy of cutting the pattern all the way through. You\u2019ll leave a little hinge of paper.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Cut on the third line starting at the side seam to the apex but not through the apex. Again you\u2019ll leave another hinge.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Slip a piece of paper under your pattern. Tape down part of the center edge to keep it in place.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Now comes the magic.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"652\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-14-1024x652.jpg\" alt=\"add half of what you need total\" class=\"wp-image-5973\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-14-1024x652.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-14-300x190.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-14-150x95.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-14-768x489.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-14-1536x978.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-14.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>You will add half of what you need to add to the front because your pattern represents only half of the front. You\u2019ll cut two front pieces or one on the fold, which together, will provide the total amount you need.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Spread the pattern horizontally, at the apex, half the amount you need to add. If you need 1\u201d add to the bust you will spread the pattern apart \u00bd\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Be sure the cut edges of line #1 stay parallel and equal distance apart the entire way down the pattern. Secure the cut edges down near the apex.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"717\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-15-1024x717.jpg\" alt=\"spread the pieces apart\" class=\"wp-image-5974\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-15-1024x717.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-15-300x210.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-15-150x105.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-15-768x538.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-15-1536x1075.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-15.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>The dart spreads apart automatically to become the size it needs to be.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The front hem is now off because the bust needs extra fabric added both horizontally and vertically. This is why the front hem, under the bust was rising up. Extra length is needed here and to get it you simply bring down the center to match the side of the pattern.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"700\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-16-1024x700.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5975\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-16-1024x700.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-16-300x205.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-16-150x103.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-16-768x525.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-16-1536x1050.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-16.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Cut the center straight across, perpendicular to the grainline. Lower it, staying lined up with the grainline or center front, until it lines up with the side of the pattern and tape it down.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Check that the waist seam\/hem and armhole seams are smooth.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Redraw the dart legs. Measure the top dart leg so the new leg is the same length as the original. Have the tip of the new dart point to your apex. Draw in the new bottom dart leg to be equal in length to the top leg.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"656\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-17-1024x656.jpg\" alt=\"fold the dart and true the side seam\" class=\"wp-image-5976\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-17-1024x656.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-17-300x192.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-17-150x96.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-17-768x492.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-17-1536x984.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-17.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Fold the bottom leg of the dart to meet the top leg and true the side seam at the base of the dart. Redraw a smooth line taking half of the extra width off the excess side and adding half to the lesser side. This is called trueing and I have a post all about it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Cut the side seam with the dart still folded to get the shape of the new dart.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"745\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-19-1024x745.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5978\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-19-1024x745.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-19-300x218.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-19-150x109.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-19-768x559.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-19-1536x1117.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-19.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>The width at the waist has grown because the pattern was expanded all the way down to the waist seam or hem. If you don\u2019t want this extra room you can take it off at the side seam.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Take off the extra width only below the side seam notch. You need the width higher up for the bust. Any new seam lines should blend smoothly coming off of and rejoining the original line.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"724\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-18-1024x724.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5977\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-18-1024x724.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-18-300x212.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-18-150x106.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-18-768x543.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-18-1536x1086.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-18.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Check that the back pattern piece is true to the new front pattern piece at the side seam.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"814\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-20-1024x814.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5979\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-20-1024x814.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-20-300x238.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-20-150x119.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-20-768x610.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-20-1536x1220.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-20.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Your new front bodice pattern with more room added both horizontally and vertically in the center to accommodate a full bust.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"696\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-21-1024x696.jpg\" alt=\"the pattern before\" class=\"wp-image-5980\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-21-1024x696.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-21-300x204.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-21-150x102.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-21-768x522.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-21-1536x1044.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-21.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">How to Do the Full Bust Adjustment on a Bodice Without a Dart<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>A bodice without a dart can use the simpler pivot method.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Trace your pattern onto another piece of paper.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"657\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-22-1024x657.jpg\" alt=\"measure over at the underarm\" class=\"wp-image-5981\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-22-1024x657.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-22-300x193.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-22-150x96.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-22-768x493.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-22-1536x986.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-22.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Measure over from the armhole\/side seam, half the amount you need to add to the bust in total and make a mark on the paper.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"743\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-23-1024x743.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5982\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-23-1024x743.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-23-300x218.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-23-150x109.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-23-768x558.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-23-1536x1115.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-23.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Using a pencil tip, or awl, hold the pattern down at the intersection of the armhole\/shoulder seam. Swing the pattern out so the underarm hits the mark.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"731\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-24-1024x731.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5983\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-24-1024x731.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-24-300x214.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-24-150x107.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-24-768x548.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-24-1536x1097.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-24.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Trace the pattern at the armhole to get the new armhole.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"687\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-25-1024x687.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5984\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-25-1024x687.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-25-300x201.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-25-150x101.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-25-768x515.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-25-1536x1031.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-25.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Move your pencil or awl down to the armhole\/sideseam intersection and hold the pattern down. Pivot the pattern so the side seam meets the original side seam at the waist.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"707\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-26-1024x707.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5985\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-26-1024x707.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-26-300x207.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-26-150x104.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-26-768x530.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-26-1536x1060.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-26.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Trace the pattern\u2019s side seam.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Check against the back pattern piece\u2019s side seam to be sure it stills lines up. The front side seam may need to be raised at the waist to keep it at its original length.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"685\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-27-1024x685.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5986\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-27-1024x685.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-27-300x201.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-27-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-27-768x514.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-27-1536x1028.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-27.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>This is your new pattern. Extra room was added only to the bust area. The waist and shoulders stayed the same.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>That&#8217;s how to do a Full Bust Adjustment on a bodice with and without a bust dart.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>This post is one in a series about getting a better fit from your patterns through simple pattern adjustments. The Full Bust Adjustment, aka FBA, is one of the most common adjustments women need to make to their sewing pattern. (Did you know the average bra size in America is a 34DD?) Luckily, it\u2019s also [&hellip;]&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/2025\/03\/when-and-how-to-do-a-full-bust-adjustment\/\" class=\"post-read-more\">Read more&#8230;<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":5988,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[273,44,239],"tags":[357,60,231],"class_list":["post-5963","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fitting-tips","category-sewing-skills","category-pattern-making","tag-bust-adjustment","tag-fitting","tag-pattern-fitting"],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/2025-3-tds-vd-pattern-fitting-fba-ft.jpg","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p1EZxn-1yb","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5963","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=5963"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5963\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5999,"href":"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5963\/revisions\/5999"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/5988"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=5963"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=5963"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=5963"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}