{"id":5938,"date":"2025-02-24T13:58:36","date_gmt":"2025-02-24T18:58:36","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/?p=5938"},"modified":"2026-03-30T14:32:52","modified_gmt":"2026-03-30T18:32:52","slug":"get-the-right-fit","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/2025\/02\/get-the-right-fit\/","title":{"rendered":"Get the Right Fit"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-pattern-fitting-measurements-adjustments-mn-1024x682.jpg\" alt=\"title image\" class=\"wp-image-5943\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-pattern-fitting-measurements-adjustments-mn-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-pattern-fitting-measurements-adjustments-mn-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-pattern-fitting-measurements-adjustments-mn-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-pattern-fitting-measurements-adjustments-mn-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-pattern-fitting-measurements-adjustments-mn-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-pattern-fitting-measurements-adjustments-mn.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>It is said that 25% of your sewing time (or more) should be spent on fitting. Well, let\u2019s keep it to 25% and no more by starting with the size that will give you fewer problems, then it&#8217;s a matter of measuring the flat pattern and making some common pattern adjustments before any fabric is even brought out.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-youtube wp-block-embed-youtube wp-embed-aspect-16-9 wp-has-aspect-ratio\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"How to Choose the Right Sewing Pattern Size | Sewing Pattern Fitting | The Daily Sew\" width=\"1140\" height=\"641\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/0egkSLjGzhE?feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>If you want to watch the video instead, here it is; otherwise, Read On<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">A Good Fit Starts With Accurate Measurements<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>You can not just guess what size you need, and you certainly can\u2019t base a sewing pattern size on your size in ready-to-wear clothing. There\u2019s no getting around it, you have to measure yourself.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In front of a full-length mirror, standing in your everyday undergarments, NOT over your clothes, NOT over leggings or a leotard (both compress the body, giving you inaccurate measurements), stand tall and relax.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>It\u2019s important to keep your stance consistent when measuring yourself. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Stand straight with your arms and elbows down.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Stand still when taking your measurements.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Take a deep breath in, breathe out, then take your measurements. This helps bring the shoulders down to their natural position.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-cover has-custom-content-position is-position-top-left\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"672\" class=\"wp-block-cover__image-background wp-image-5923\" alt=\"how to measure the high bust\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-2-1024x672.jpg\" data-object-fit=\"cover\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-2-1024x672.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-2-300x197.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-2-150x98.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-2-768x504.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-2-1536x1008.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-2.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><span aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-cover__background has-background-dim\"><\/span><div class=\"wp-block-cover__inner-container is-layout-flow wp-block-cover-is-layout-flow\">\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center has-large-font-size\">High bust measurement<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>When measuring, keep your fingers on top of the tape measure, not sandwiched between your body and the tape measure, but also don&#8217;t pull the tape tight. You want accurate measurements.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>With your flexible tape measure, measure the:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>High Bust<\/strong> &#8211; This is around the back, under the arms, and over the bust apex*&nbsp; (Apex means the fullest point.) The High Bust measurement helps you determine your pattern cup size for patterns that give you different cup sizes and gives you a more accurate indication of what size you need to fit your shoulders and upper chest.<br>Should a woman who is generously endowed use her full bust measurement to pick a pattern size she will likely find the garment too loose in the shoulders, neck, and upper chest. It\u2019s best to pick a size that fits in this upper chest area and do a full bust adjustment to the pattern to fit the full bust.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Full bust<\/strong> &#8211; Measure the fullest circumference of your body at the bust\/chest level. Turn sideways and check that the measuring tape is parallel to the floor.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Waist<\/strong> &#8211; Measure your natural waist. The natural waist is where you are smallest in your torso. You can find it by leaning to the side like a teapot and where your torso bends is your natural waist. It\u2019s usually slightly higher than the belly button. Check in the mirror that the tape measurer is parallel to the floor.&nbsp;<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Hips<\/strong> &#8211; Measure at the largest circumference of your body at the bottom\/hip area. Again, the tape should be parallel to the floor.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Mid-Shoulder to Bust<\/strong> &#8211; Starting at the midpoint between your neck and where the divet in your shoulder is\/your arm is attached (This low point can be felt easier than seen.) measure down to your bust apex.\u00a0This measurement will tell you if you need to raise or lower a bust dart or redraw the princess seam to go over your apex.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Bustline to Waistline<\/strong> &#8211; Measure down the center front from your bust line (across the left and right apexes) to your natural waistline. This tells you if you need to shorten or add to the pattern between the apex and the pattern\u2019s waistline.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Waistline to Hipline<\/strong> &#8211; Measure down the center front the distance between the natural waistline and the hipline (where your hips and bottom are widest). This tells you if you need to shorten or add to the pattern between the pattern\u2019s waistline and your hips.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Shoulder Width<\/strong> &#8211; Measure across the shoulders from the low point on one arm\/shoulder, across the back of the neck, to the low point on the other arm. Especially if you suspect or know if your shoulders are narrow or broad.\u00a0<br>It can be helpful to physically mark the low point on one of your shoulders with a pen (mark your skin or, place a piece of tape on the body and mark on the tape). Tape the tape measure to the opposite shoulder\u2019s low point. Stand sideways to the mirror and carry the tape measure across the back of your neck to the marked low point on the opposite arm (this is the arm closest to the mirror). Hold the \u201ctail\u201d of the tape measure down by your side. Relax your shoulders and look sideways into the mirror to read the measurement of where the mark is.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Measure <strong>ANY area you have problems fitting<\/strong>. Maybe you have muscular biceps and frequently find sleeves too tight. Measure the circumference of the fullest area in any area you have trouble fitting, and what distance up or down from a marker this full area is. Again, using the biceps as an example, how full and approximately how far down from my shoulder is the fullness? Measure the length of any area that is frequently too long or too short on you. Anything you usually have trouble fitting, be sure to measure it.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"641\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-8-1024x641.jpg\" alt=\"where to take measurements on the body\" class=\"wp-image-5930\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-8-1024x641.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-8-300x188.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-8-150x94.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-8-768x480.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-8-1536x961.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-8.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Wait? What Size Does the Pattern Say I Need? Surely Not.<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>It\u2019s well known that pattern sizes and clothing sizes are not <em>even <\/em>close. And yet maybe you can relate to my experience:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>When buying something on the JCrew site, the size chart indicates I take a 10. Ok. When I go to sew a Vogue pattern, my exact same body measurements say I need a 14 and grade out to a 16, not a 10. And, here\u2019s the kicker, I pick the 12, the one in between my RTW size and the pattern size, because \u201cThere\u2019s no way I take a 14\/16. I\u2019m a 10.&#8221; Well, girlie, you\u2019re wrong.\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>It\u2019s vanity sizing, and at this point, it\u2019s just regular ol\u2019 sizing, and the number, aka the name of your size, is just that, a name. Your measurements have not changed. We have to, or at least I have to, be honest and be logical, and pick the size I need or else the garment will not fit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"497\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-9-1024x497.jpg\" alt=\"the size chart on Simplicity, McCalls, Vogue and Butterick are the same\" class=\"wp-image-5931\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-9-1024x497.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-9-300x146.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-9-150x73.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-9-768x373.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-9-1536x746.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-9.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>And just to confuse you more, pattern sizes will vary from pattern company to pattern company, just as clothing brands differ from each other. The Exception is patterns from the Big 4 (Butterick, Vogue, McCall\u2019s and Simplicity) which use and share a standardized size chart.\u00a0(and are now all owned by Simplicity)<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This standardized size chart, which the Big 4 use, is based on an average of people\u2019s measurements from the companies\u2019 geographical region; North America in the case of Simplicity Group. This explains why a medium-sized pattern from a North American company will be a very different size than a medium-sized pattern from an Asian company or a European company.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"455\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-10-1024x455.jpg\" alt=\"these 3 patterns, from different companies have completely different size charts\" class=\"wp-image-5932\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-10-1024x455.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-10-300x133.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-10-150x67.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-10-768x341.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-10-1536x683.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-10.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Independent pattern companies, aka Indie Patterns, do not use or share a standardized size chart. They may use an average size of their target audience, but typically use the pattern designer\u2019s own measurements to base their sizing on and grade up or down from that in whatever method they choose for grading. (There are different ways to size a pattern up or down, and it affects the fit).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Even if your measurements are exactly average to the sample used by the Big 4 or identical to an indie pattern designer, your shape is different. You may be the same height but have longer legs, or the same bust measurement but have a wider rib cage. Factors like height, cup size, shoulder slopes, shoulder widths, posture, skeletal size, musculature, and age affect the fit in major ways.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Take your measurements and accept them for what they are, just numbers, and a good place to start when choosing our pattern size.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"641\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-5-1024x641.jpg\" alt=\"we all come in different packages\" class=\"wp-image-5926\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-5-1024x641.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-5-300x188.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-5-150x94.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-5-768x480.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-5-1536x961.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-5.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Picking Your Best Pattern Size<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Generally, if you\u2019re sewing a pattern for skirts and pants choose your waist measurement. If your hips are two sizes or more larger than your waist, use your hip measurement to choose the starting size. If you\u2019re between two sizes, choose the smaller size for a closer fit or if you are small-boned. Choose the larger size for a looser fit or if you are large-boned.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If you\u2019re buying a pattern for a jacket, top or dress, you need a size that fits you in the shoulders and bust as these items hang from these body areas. So you\u2019ll select your sized based on your high bust or full bust measurements depending on which cup size the pattern is drafted for.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Good to Know: Each size in Small, Medium, and Large type sizing represents two numerical sizes and it has to fit the larger of the two sizes.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Many pattern fitting experts recommend measuring your high bust and choosing your pattern size based on that measurement. You will substitute it for the \u201cbust\u201d measurement on the pattern\u2019s size chart. If your measurement falls in between sizes choose the smaller pattern. If the garment is a very tight design you could choose either size to start.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This high bust measurement size will fit the shoulders, neckline, armscye, and upper chest more accurately than choosing the size based on your full bust. After choosing this size you may have to do a Bust Adjustment alteration to the pattern however, these adjustments are much easier to do than adjustments for the upper chest, shoulders and armscye areas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Simplicity.com (that\u2019s the parent company for Butterick, McCalls and Vogue as well as Simplicity) recommends when sewing their Misses patterns if you have more than a 2 \u00bd\u201d or 6.3 cm difference between bust and high bust, select your pattern size by high bust measurement. For their Women\u2019s patterns which are drafted for a C cup if you have more than a 1\u201d or 2.5 cm difference choose based on the high bust measurement.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Some patterns are drafted for different cup sizes. They will include a bodice piece in each cup size. Those patterns will tell you how to select your size.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>After you choose what size your bust or high bust requires you\u2019ll need to check what size your waist and hips require&nbsp; (Unless you\u2019re making bottoms then forget the bust measurement)<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Most folks find that according to the size chart they need a different size in the bust, waist, and hips.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Write down what size you need for each area. If your pattern is multisized it is easy to go from one size to another and I\u2019ll show you how but for now, choose what size or sizes you need based on the pattern\u2019s size chart (and remember unless it\u2019s a Big 4&nbsp; every pattern company uses a different size chart)<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"640\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-14-1024x640.jpg\" alt=\"measure the flat pattern\" class=\"wp-image-5936\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-14-1024x640.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-14-300x188.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-14-150x94.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-14-768x480.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-14-1536x960.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-14.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Measure the Flat Pattern<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Check the finished measurements of the garment if the pattern provides them but also measure the flat pattern in key areas and compare your measurements against it. Because everyone carries their fullness and length in different places on the body, flat pattern measuring can help you make sure the pattern is big enough or long or short enough in those areas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"664\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-3-1024x664.jpg\" alt=\"fold the dart closed to measure the flat pattern\" class=\"wp-image-5924\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-3-1024x664.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-3-300x195.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-3-150x97.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-3-768x498.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-3-1536x996.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-3.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>When measuring the flat pattern:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>The pattern needs to be flat.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Do not include the seam allowance. Either measure from the cutting line to cutting line for your size and subtract the seam allowance. Or draw the seam allowance on your pattern and measure from seam line to seam line.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Do not include any extensions beyond the opening. This would be a built-on placket or facing that will be folded back on itself.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Do not measure the space between dart legs or pleat notches. Again, these are folded out in the finished garment. Either fold them out of the pattern and measure or measure up to the dart or pleat, skip over it, and carry on measuring the other side.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>If the the pattern piece is to be cut on the fold it is only half a pattern so double your measurement<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Measure all the pieces that make up that area and add the results together. Example, a front leg piece and a back leg piece to get the circumference of the thigh. ( line up the side seam notches to be sure you\u2019re measuring at the same height across the pattern pieces)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>I advise measuring the distance between mid-shoulder to bust, from bust to waist and waist to hips or hem. Many of us are longer or shorter than the pattern in a different area than the pattern\u2019s \u201clengthen or shorten line\u201d. This will also inform you if you need to raise or lower the bust dart to a better height.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Once you have the flat pattern measurements you can compare them to your body measurements.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>However, you don\u2019t want your body measurements and the pattern measurements to be equal. It\u2019s very important, that your pattern is slightly bigger than your body (unless you are making a tight-fitting, stretch garment). You need to have room to move in your clothes. You need to have ease.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"580\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-best-pattern-size-6-1024x580.jpg\" alt=\"baggy jeans and skinny jeans\" class=\"wp-image-5921\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-best-pattern-size-6-1024x580.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-best-pattern-size-6-300x170.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-best-pattern-size-6-150x85.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-best-pattern-size-6-768x435.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-best-pattern-size-6-1536x869.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-best-pattern-size-6.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Ease is the Key to Comfort and Design<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>You can\u2019t make a garment that is exactly your body measurements and expect to be able to move fully in it. (again, high-stretch fabrics can be the same or less than your measurements and you will be able to move because the fabric, not the style, allows movement)<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>You need some extra room, more than the body\u2019s measurements, added to the pattern piece to be able to move and you will possibly need even more fabric to achieve the style\u2019s silhouette. This extra fabric, both for movement and style is called Ease.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The minimum amount needed to be able to move, sit and raise your arms is called <strong>Wearing Ease<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Design Ease<\/strong> is any additional room added for stylistic purposes. This ease influences the garment&#8217;s drape, shape, fit, and attitude.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>For example, in the 1990\u2019s extra large jeans were in style. This very loose leg and seat (the fit) gave a relaxed appearance (the attitude). The denim puddled at the feet (the drape). The amount of extra fabric was beyond what was needed for the body to move and sit. Skinny jeans are the opposite. They have minimum ease added for a tight, sleek appearance. They have to use a high-stretch denim to compensate for the lack of ease. It\u2019s the stretch in the fabric that allows the wearer to sit and for the feet to go in and out of the tiny leg opening.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Because fashion is an art and not a science there is no rule, or limit on how much design ease can be used. The designer has creative freedom and when you sew your clothes, you are the designer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"657\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-11-1024x657.jpg\" alt=\"a pattern description may tell you how much design ease there is\" class=\"wp-image-5933\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-11-1024x657.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-11-300x192.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-11-150x96.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-11-768x493.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-11-1536x985.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-11.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>To know how much ease the pattern has included your best clue is the photo. But this is not always accurate depending on the shape of the model and if clips were used where you can\u2019t see them.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Sometimes a pattern will include in the description the amount of design ease added. Terms like semi-fitted or loose are talking about design ease. A semi-fitted shirt may have 4 to 5 inches more than the body measurement for each size. A loose shirt could have 5 to 8 inches of more than the body measurements.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Note: According to Sandra Betzina, If the pattern is described as very loose fitting and you are shorter than the height drafted for (typically 5\u20196\u201d) you may want to use a size smaller pattern than your measurements indicate. This way both the proportions and the size of the shoulder will suit you better.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>You have to decide how much ease you like in your clothes AND how closely you want to follow the design\u2019s style. If you choose to sew a smaller size because there is a lot of design ease, your final garment could look like a different garment then you thought you were making. You changed the design by changing the amount of design ease.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I have done this exact thing. I took out too much ease from a chino pants pattern and ended up with pants that looked nothing like the intended, relaxed style the pattern designer drafted. Lesson learned.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-4-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"measure a garment you like to wear\" class=\"wp-image-5925\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-4-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-4-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-4-150x113.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-4-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-4-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-4-760x570.jpg 760w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-4.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Measuring Garments You Already Wear<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>And because design ease may throw you off when measuring the flat pattern as it did me with those pants, you can start by measuring the clothing you own that you like to wear. Your favorites will tell you what fit you prefer and, like comparing our measurements to the flat pattern, you can compare your clothes\u2019 measurements to the flat pattern.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I can measure the waist or sleeves or bust of a garment I like that is similar to the pattern I\u2019m making then compare it to the flat pattern measurements in that same area. The garment has ease in it, and so does the pattern. It\u2019s a little more like comparing apples to apples.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Remember, since you are measuring the garment flat you\u2019ll need to double the measurement for the entire circumference.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Make Alterations to the Pattern Before You Cut Any Fabric<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Ok, You\u2019ve measured and realized that this pattern is not going to fit you as it is right now. Something is off somewhere. Not a problem in fact it\u2019s absolutely normal.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>It is super rare for anyone to cut out a pattern right out of the envelope and have it fit as a garment should. You are not the only one who has to make adjustments to the pattern to get it to fit. This it\u2019s just how it is and I cannot stress that enough<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Let\u2019s go over a few common adjustments you can make to the pattern before you sew a teat garment.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Note: Measure the pattern and remember that you need a minimum of two inches (5 cm) of ease if you want the garment to hang freely over the body.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"659\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-1-1024x659.jpg\" alt=\"how to go from one size on a multisize pattern to another\" class=\"wp-image-5922\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-1-1024x659.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-1-300x193.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-1-150x97.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-1-768x495.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-1-1536x989.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-1.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Using Multiple Sizes<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If you need a different size in your bust, waist, and\/or hips and you have a multi-sized pattern it\u2019s as easy as drawing a new cutting line that joins one size to the other. The key is to make the lines smoothly transition. Start at nothing from one size\u2019s cutting line and blend to nothing when you reach the other size\u2019s cutting line. Connecting lines will gently curve between the sizes.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"687\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-right-size-pattern-15-1024x687.jpg\" alt=\"How to add length to a sewing pattern\" class=\"wp-image-5928\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-right-size-pattern-15-1024x687.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-right-size-pattern-15-300x201.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-right-size-pattern-15-150x101.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-right-size-pattern-15-768x515.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-right-size-pattern-15-1536x1031.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-right-size-pattern-15.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Add Length to a Pattern<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Adding length to the hem doesn\u2019t always work. Sometimes you need to length elsewhere. This is why patterns typically have a lengthen\/shorten line on pattern pieces. And if they don\u2019t have one, or there isn\u2019t one where you need it you can make one. It\u2019s easy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>However, I caution you not to add length in the armscye area unless you know how to add that extra amount to the sleeve cap as well. If it\u2019s sleeveless you could do this easier but you still need to either bring up the armhole so it\u2019s not revealing your bra.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If you are long between your shoulder and bust apex, lowering the bust dart is a far easier adjustment than messing with that armscye.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If you need to lengthen the pattern:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Determine where you need to add the length. (Above the knee, below the knee, at the waist) If the pattern\u2019s lengthen\/shorten line is in this area skip the next step.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>If there is no lengthen\/shorten line in the area you need length, draw one. Draw a line perpendicular to the grainline across the pattern piece where you need the extra length.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Draw two short straight lines, a few inches apart, across the lengthen\/shorten line (The pattern\u2019s or yours).<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Cut the pattern in 2 along the lengthen\/shorten line.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Tape the cut edge of one pattern piece to a sheet of paper that is as wide as your pattern piece and a couple of inches longer than the length you\u2019re adding.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Measure over from the taped edge onto the added paper how much you need to add to the pattern.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Draw a line parallel to the lengthen\/shorten line on the added paper where you measured. (This second line is the same distance from the lengthen\/shorten line as you need to add to the pattern.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Lengthen the grainline (if it\u2019s there) and your two short lines, across the paper to meet the new line<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Line up the other part of the pattern piece to the second line. Match the cross lines and grainline if applicable.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Tape the second part of the pattern down to the added paper on the second line.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Draw a line to extend the Center Front or Back, inside seams, and side seams.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"421\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-right-size-pattern-16-1024x421.jpg\" alt=\"true the pattern if the seams no longer match up after an adjusment\" class=\"wp-image-5929\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-right-size-pattern-16-1024x421.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-right-size-pattern-16-300x123.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-right-size-pattern-16-150x62.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-right-size-pattern-16-768x316.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-right-size-pattern-16-1536x632.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-right-size-pattern-16.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Many times you \u201ctrue\u201d the sideseam; the old sideseam lines no longer line up. When you draw in the new cut line, connecting the two original lines, split the difference of the two as you connect them. If they are a \u00bc\u201d off, subtract \u215b\u201d off the line that is now too wide and add \u215b\u201d to the line that is now too narrow.&nbsp;<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1019\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-13-1019x1024.jpg\" alt=\"how to shorten a sewing pattern\" class=\"wp-image-5935\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-13-1019x1024.jpg 1019w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-13-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-13-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-13-768x772.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-13-1528x1536.jpg 1528w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-13.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1019px) 100vw, 1019px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Shorten a Pattern<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Cutting off any extra length at the hem doesn\u2019t always work. Sometimes you need to shorten the pattern elsewhere. This is why patterns typically have a lengthen\/shorten line on pattern pieces. And if they don\u2019t have one, or there isn\u2019t one where you need it you can make one. It\u2019s easy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>However, I caution you not to shorten a pattern in the armscye area unless you know how to remove that extra amount from the sleeve cap as well. If it\u2019s sleeveless you could do this easier but you still need to lower the armhole so your arm will fit through it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If you are short between your shoulder and bust apex, raising the bust dart is a far easier adjustment than messing with that armscye.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If you need to shorten a pattern:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Determine where you need to shorten the pattern. (Above the knee, below the knee, at the waist) If the pattern\u2019s lengthen\/shorten line is in this area skip the next step.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>If there is no lengthen\/shorten line in the area you need length, draw one. Draw a line perpendicular to the grainline across the pattern piece where you need to shorten it.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Draw a second line parallel to this lengthen\/shorten line the same distance apart as you need to shorten the pattern piece by.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Fold the pattern on one of your lines.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Bring the fold up or down to meet the other line.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Tape this fold closed.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>True up any seams on the sides of these lines. When the sideseam (or other seam) no longer lines up, draw in a new cut line, connecting the two original lines. Split the difference of the two as you connect them. If they are a \u00bc\u201d off, subtract \u215b\u201d off the line that is now too wide and add \u215b\u201d to the line that is now too narrow.&nbsp;<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>Other common adjustments you can make on a flat pattern before you cut are:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Full Bust Adjustment aka FBA<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Small Bust Adjustment aka SBA<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Dart Placement Adjustment<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Forward Shoulder Adjustment.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"964\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-7-1024x964.jpg\" alt=\"sew a test garment\" class=\"wp-image-5927\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-7-1024x964.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-7-300x282.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-7-150x141.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-7-768x723.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-best-pattern-size-7.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Seriously, Sew a Test Garment (aka: a Muslin or a Toile)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Nobody wants to sew a muslin. Even the people who end up making three test garments before they start in the final fabric don\u2019t want to. But what\u2019s worse spending hours and days sewing on fabric you\u2019ve spent good money on only to have the finished garment not fit well enough that you\u2019ll wear it regularly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>You are not being punished or held back when you sew a test garment. Instead, you\u2019re putting in the hours and the work, to learn how fit and the result is beautiful, tailored-made clothes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Please, learn from me and so many others. Invest the time upfront for less frustration and waste, and make a test garment.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Besides, sewing a test garment isn\u2019t as involved as the final garment. You take a lot of shortcuts, on purpose. Your goal is to test the pattern, not be able to wear the test garment.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>First, choose a fabric with a similar drape as the final fabric because fabric can affect fit. This isn\u2019t always easy, especially with knit fabrics and thick coat fabric but a test garment in anything is better than no test garment.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"672\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-12-1024x672.jpg\" alt=\"sew a muslin or test garment. Draw in the pockets to save time\" class=\"wp-image-5934\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-12-1024x672.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-12-300x197.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-12-150x98.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-12-768x504.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-12-1536x1008.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-12.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Draw in the grainline with a pencil on each piece that makes the garment. When trying on you will be able to see if a piece is being pulled off grain. This can indicate you need more fabric added somewhere.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Add additional seam allowance to the side seams. If the test garment is too tight in an area, you can let out that seam and use the extra wide seam allowance to adjust the seamline without having to cut out a wider piece.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Leave off the hem allowance cutting on the hem fold line or if you think you might need the extra length leave the hem allowance on and pin up the hem instead of sewing it down.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Stay stitch any curves and bias-cut edges so they don\u2019t stretch out of shape while you make the test garment. You wouldn\u2019t think a neckline would stretch so badly so fast but it will.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Use a basting stitch to sew a test garment. The longer stitches require less time sewing and are easier to rip out if you need to change the seam.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Leave off the details. You don\u2019t need to sew the pockets unless they\u2019re part of the front of the garment. (but don\u2019t sew the actual pockets &#8211; just use the piece that makes the front of the garment). Patch pockets or welt pocket openings can be drawn onto the fabric to check the pocket placement.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>Try on your muslin. Make sure you can raise your arms, and sit comfortably.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Be aware that sometimes we rush sewing a muslin and this sloppy stitching might look like a fit problem when you try the garment on. Examine your sewing first if you\u2019re unsure why something is off in a particular area.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>And don\u2019t obsess over every line or wrinkle. Overfitting a garment isn\u2019t good.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Whatever changes you make to the muslin be sure to transfer them to the flat pattern and make notes on the pattern piece or on the instruction sheet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>A popular \u201ctry-on\u201d method in home sewing is tissue fitting. Instead of sewing a muslin you pin the pattern pieces together and try on the tissue pattern. It\u2019s a little more detailed than that and you can read all about it in The Palmer\/Pletsch Complete Guide to Fitting.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Sewing a test garment will elevate your final garment, enhance your fitting knowledge, and give you practice with any construction technique the pattern calls for. Sewing a test garment is going to save you more frustration than it causes, it will save your expensive fabric and in the long run, your time.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"575\" src=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-15-1024x575.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-5945\" srcset=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-15-1024x575.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-15-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-15-150x84.jpg 150w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-15-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-15-1536x863.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-the-right-pattern-size-15.jpg 2000w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Last Word<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Learning to fit is a process. The more you do it, the better you get. Patience and practice are the key. The best fabric and the finest workmanship cannot compensate for poor fit. I wish it could.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>There are many books out there on fitting, and I think all have a different approach to fitting. Try your library first to see if the author\u2019s method is one that makes sense to you<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Here are three fitting books I relied on for much of my research for this post and video.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Gina Renee Dunham &#8220;<a href=\"https:\/\/amzn.to\/416NC60\" data-type=\"link\" data-id=\"https:\/\/amzn.to\/416NC60\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">The Fitting Book<\/a>&#8220;<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Sandra Betzina  &#8220;<a href=\"https:\/\/amzn.to\/4gKWEeG\" data-type=\"link\" data-id=\"https:\/\/amzn.to\/4gKWEeG\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Fast Fit<\/a>&#8220;<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Palmer and Pletsch &#8220;<a href=\"https:\/\/amzn.to\/415HzhP\" data-type=\"link\" data-id=\"https:\/\/amzn.to\/415HzhP\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Complete Guide to Fitting<\/a>&#8220;<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>It is said that 25% of your sewing time (or more) should be spent on fitting. Well, let\u2019s keep it to 25% and no more by starting with the size that will give you fewer problems, then it&#8217;s a matter of measuring the flat pattern and making some common pattern adjustments before any fabric is [&hellip;]&nbsp;<a href=\"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/2025\/02\/get-the-right-fit\/\" class=\"post-read-more\">Read more&#8230;<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":5944,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[273,44],"tags":[60,231,215],"class_list":["post-5938","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fitting-tips","category-sewing-skills","tag-fitting","tag-pattern-fitting","tag-sewing-patterns"],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/02\/2025-2-tds-bg-how-to-choose-best-pattern-size-ft.jpg","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p1EZxn-1xM","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5938","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=5938"}],"version-history":[{"count":10,"href":"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5938\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":6375,"href":"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5938\/revisions\/6375"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/5944"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=5938"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=5938"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/thedailysew.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=5938"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}